The other day I decided to treat my players to their own miniatures of their characters. I got these of Hero Forge. I actually had great fun playing with the software, but in the end I came up with the four characters. Two hobbits, a Mirkwood Elf and a ranger.
I bought the STL’s as I can print in both resin and filament (still cost over $7.00 each. But it was a present so I was willing to spurge in my mate’s and my eldest.
So I posted a picture of them yesterday in their raw state…
Sadly one of the hobbits failed to print properly, but the rest came out okay (ish). I reprinted them all today as the ranger had lost half of his shield and the elf lost their scabbard. Unfortunately on today’s print the ranger lost a different bit of their shield as did the hobbit, the elf still lost the scabbard, but luckily the other hobbit printed (even if she does seem to have very thin arms.
I decided to give the original ones a lick of paint tonight and here we are…
So left to right we have Tauriel, an elf of the woodland realm. Arador a ranger of the north and finally Hoban Underhill a hobbit of the Shire.
The poses were funky and as I said I enjoyed playing with all the different poses and equipment. I spent a couple of hours at least on the four of them. This is where it gets a bit interesting. There are some poses and equipment that do not work at all together. I decided to make a Samurai and Ninja. I felt the urge to make a diorama… I blame Dave and Pete for that! The Ninja was in a three point landing and the samurai was rushing forward with a spear. Whatever weapon I tried to put on the belt of the Samurai actually went through the armour. It would go on the right side of the body fine, but not the left. I then decided to do some experimenting with different figures and found similar things. The elf above has her hair in a bun, simply because if it was long it would go through her back quiver.
The other thing I found was that the resin actually has ridges on it as if it were done on a filament printer. They are faint, but they are there. At the distance you would normally see them on the table they are invisible, but they are definitely there. Now this is different resin, but the civilians I did a while back do not have these ridges. It makes me think that it could be the actual miniature itself. I have seen pictures of the Hero Forge stuff that people have bought as a miniature having them too.
Will I be rushing out to get any more, probably not. This was a one off experiment. I might fork out $16.00 for the two Japanese minis I built, but before I do I might see if I can find something from the various mini manufacturers out there.. to be honest it would probably be cheaper.
Talking of cheaper, the Up and coming Patreon that I said I was likely to follow, is more like definite now, but interestingly enough he shared a Link to a MyMiniFactory page, where I could make a ranger… okay I cannot have him doing back flips or other things like I could on Hero Forge, but it is really a nice miniature and I could have some weapon options etc. Plus they come with a full sized base, not a really thin one like the ones I just did.Price $4.00 just over half the price of the one above…
These are pretty much finished now apart from the fact that I forgot to paint the back banner!
I also had a play about with some of them on a 30×40 base and a 20×40 base. I still can’t decide which to go for. There are twenty in total so I could get 5 bases With 4 to a base and 6 full bases with 3 To a base.
Pretty much everything I have done is on the 20×40 bases so I don’t know whether adding something bigger into the mix will look a bit weird or not.
These next miniatures are not lizards and definitely not 6mm.
I decided to get some paint on these. These were the underexposed lot so the features are pretty much non existent, but as I am a stingy sod I am painting them anyway. Hopefully I will get them finished sooner rather than later. I have been a really good boy and my resin printer is having a rest while I think about what I am actually going to do on it.
Tonight was a bit more productive than yesterday as I actually managed to paint things…
Here they are so far. They still have weapons and shields to do and then sort out any missed bits. These were really nice to paint so thumbs up to the sculptor as they were pretty speedy to do. Yeah I could have spent more time sorting out stripes and things but decided against it. I decided to make a leader by adding a back banner as befits an Aztecesque Beasty. Once the Greenstuff has cured I will cut it down and make it colourful. The leader is the only one that is a different colour. My original idea was to go black, then purple, but instead I went for grey, trying to make an albino type that would mark him out as special. His mount is the only one with s coloured crown too (well yes grey is a colour, but I meant bright colour).
Hopefully I will get these finished tomorrow. I am not sure how many I will add to a base and what size base to do. All of the other cavalry are on 20×40. I can definitely fit them onto one, but part of me things 30×40 as I can then spread them out a bit. I will have a play around tomorrow and see what I come up with…
Today I was working on the monks and I got a phone call from a friend and colleague who moved away and was sitting on his own down country so they didn’t get as far forward as they could have done. But that’s okay, I would rather talk to him than finish these.
A bit of work tomorrow should see them finished, that is if I can move. I was mixing concrete by hand today and I have discovered muscles I never knew I had.
Tonight I Set about getting some paint onto the 6mm monks.
What with the resin printing and not baring able to be bothered then these got put onto the back burner a bit. There is still a long way to go with them, but at least I have made a start. The majority are in saffron robes, but I have thrown some grey and red in there too to add a bit of variety. I also added some Caucasian paint to the bearers at the back as they have now become my peasant bearers for my samurai army. I will probably cut off the armed man at the front and replace them with a samurai or Ashigaru miniature instead.
My Baccus order should be getting cast this week sometime. I am 20 orders beyond the last update so unless there are some massive orders in then I should be getting it next week.
I got these based up today, but sadly I have no tufts to add to them like all of the rest. So I will need to put an order in. I tried making my own but the least said about that The better!
I also got the bases levelled on the new stuff… some of them were worse than others…
I got all of the Irregular stuff ground down and a pile stuck onto lolly sticks. My priority is to get the monks and samurai heroes done
I am going to use some of the mounted ones as messengers with the large silk ‘Horo’. I will make it out of Greenstuff a small ball should do the trick 😂. I also want to do the battlefield Maku screens as well as field defences and more terrain.
My first castle has been shipped from Japan, so it should arrive within the next year I reckon.
Tomorrow I will get the above sprayed white then make a start on them on Friday.
My next rock group name … Resin People and the Undead.
So today, after my successful first print I decided to have a go at some miniatures. These are some of the Ill Gotten Games Townsfolke.
As I said I would, I went and washed some in ISO and some in meths. I printed a single mini too which I washed in soapy water.
So what do they look like?
The details are quite soft on the faces, I think that this is under exposure as the print cures. I will need to dial things in a bit and re test.
But anyway, the ones on the left were washed in ISO and the ones on the right in meths. Not to be honest I can’t tell the difference at first glance. They were all put outside in the sun and left for a few hours then taken inside and put under the lamp.
As mentioned I also printed another milk maid and this time washed her in soapy water. Once washed I coated it in washing up lights and rubbed it in, then rinsed off and threw it under the lamp (it was dark by time she was ready).
This is where things got interesting….
The one on the left is the one done in water and the other is the one done with ISO. Now they are definitely different colours under the light. One has just gone under the light the other has been outside and then spent a few hours under the lamp.it will be interesting to see if they both end up the same colour this time tomorrow. The others look dark as they were out of the direct light source.
I also managed to get my Undead up to the basing level. Hopefully tomorrow I will get them done and onto the next thing.
Today has been a busy one, but I managed to get some painting done as well as working with resin with the kids.
I got the undead a bit further forward as well as finishing the ogres and the cart and draft oxen (I just need to find the wagons now).
I also found my 6mm Arabs from WW1. They are painted so I just need to do the Turks and I am laughing 😉.
The kids made some more resin pieces, but I also bit the bullet and got a start on unboxing the printer…
To level it you place a piece of paper on the base, and click a button. The printer plate moves down and when it is right down one simply tightens the four silver bolts d voila… press another button to tell it that it is zeroed in and that’s it… ready to print.
I had to print the test cube as I actually couldn’t work out how to slice the bits I wanted to print. Sadly you will have to wait until tomorrow before seeing what it looks like. I am pretty impressed so far as I could never have done it on the Ender3.
Like the Ender it tells me the print time and the amount of material used. I evidently put way too much resin in the holder. Luckily I can reuse the stuff that doesn’t cure. I can run it through a fine sieve and then put it back into the bottle.
This is the start of a very large learning curve as this thing can make hollow prints to save on resin, these hollow prints need plug holes adding to allow the interior liquid resin to escape.
Now I bought grey resin as it seemed a good idea at the time, however having done a bit more research (aka watching YouTube) it is suggested that clear resins might be better as it allows the UV light to pass through the object and cure it faster.
I have got myself a couple of pots, one with ISO in and the other with meths. Again watching YouTube people who can’t get ISO easily were using meths to clean the prints before curing. Tomorrow I will print a couple of Milk maids off and give each a go in the different liquids. I have seen some people use hot water too, so perhaps that will be a third one to test.
Print comes off the plate in 20 minutes or so, so wish me luck!